Background
Around February each year the weather in Yorkshire can start to improve. It may start out cold, almost frosty, but as the sun rises often so does the temperature. Once the sun shines crocuses may open up, in all their glory. They look so sweet, fully opened and embracing the sun. This humble flower which is so often overlooked is a pretty addition to a late winter garden

The crocus
Crocuses are bought as very small corms. A corm is lightly different to a bulb and tends to be smaller. A packet will usually contain about fifty corms and is quite cheap. Crocuses originated in Europe and I suppose that is one of the reasons they seem quite happy with or strange temperate climate. However they are really from the more southern regions of Europe. My Crocuses are among the many plants which were swamped in June's flooding but have survived so I guess they are quite hardy. They are also perennials which mean that they keep coming back into flower each year.

The crocus is from the Iris family, or Iridaceae, and personally I can see that connection in the flowers. The name crocus is from the Greek, Krokos. This relates to the fact that the spice Saffron is taken from a particular crocus, the Saffron Crocus. I used saffron for years to colour white rice to yellow before I realised where it came from.

I was fascinated to see that there are about 80 different types of crocus, although only about 30 of these are cultivated. No wonder you often come across strange looking ones on the Greek Islands, for example. I have yellow, purple and white crocuses in my garden. They have small, narrow, green leaves with a white stripe running down the centre strip. The flowers when closed almost look like a small Tulip when there is no sun around. However when it is, as today, lovely and sunny, these flowers open up. There will be about 6 to 8 petals which are paler toward the centre.

The stems are about 3 to 4 inches long depending on the variety and the flowers are about the same height. Generally Crocuses flower in Spring though there are some Autumn varieties. Some of these Autumn crocuses are not strictly speaking crocuses though.

They are a great little plant for adding early colour to window boxes, planters, laws, flower beds and borders. They can be planted in bulb fibre indoors in bowls. The great thing about them is they are so tough. If they are planted in grass you can just mow them with the grass after they have finished flowering. You may not want them in your lovely lawn but may welcome then in natural grassy borders.

Crocuses tend to like plenty of sun hence their pretty opening up on a sunny day. They tend to like good soil with plenty of drainage. Still they must be quite tough as they survived being underwater for quite a while with the floods.

Crocuses can be propagated by dividing the corms which grow at the foot of the plant in late summer. For me the best time to plant is early Autumn. I usually try to stagger planting of corms and bulbs through Autumn so that there are always some just about to flourish once Spring is on the way.

Overall
There are no rules with Crocuses. You can plant them close together or not. I have some at the base of a large plant and I have these planted individually around with regular spaces between them. I also have some that are planted in small groups of 5 or 6 together and the groups are close also. If you want to split colours into groups make sure that you buy the appropriate corms.

However, for me I like to have the three colours growing in a mish mash of colour. Once they flower the flowers will last a few weeks and then all too soon they are gone for another year. If you do not want to do anything you can just leave them and they will wither away and faithfully return the next year.

Along with snowdrops and daffodils, Crocuses say to me Spring has arrived and Summer will be following on behind' Crocuses are recommended as an easy to care for, trouble free little plant that can lift your spirits on a cold day.

Please note as with all bulbs and corms, keep out of children's and pet's reach as ingestion can cause problems or may poison.

According to news sources slugs have been the big garden winners in 2012. Well I have news for them,. they always are in my small garden.

With two rescue dogs and as much wildlife as we can encourgae to drop by we never use traditional slug pellets and the like. Many of the means of ridding your garden of slugs can be brutal and not especially safe for children pets and birds.

Snail I find with my ever incresing yers never fear me. Gently pick one up and it will scurry inside its home, that is itys shell as quick as it can. You may still find a little residual slime left on your hand but you could wear gardening gloves. What you do with the snails once they are your prisoners is up to you.

If you are going to move them away from your garden and its rich pickings, that is the plants, you will need to put some distance between them and your garden. Even if you do not like your neighbour simply lifting them over their fence is not acceptable. For one thing neighbour will no doubt reciprocate plus snails have a habit of finding their way back to you.

If you walk your dogs, for example close to waste land, you could take the snails with you and release them into the wild.

Still back to slugs.

What is it with British slugs these days? Most are massive and many a dark reddish brown colour. They are the stuff of nightmares. You may be brave enough to pick these up but not I. If I really have to I will flick the slug slightly with my hand inside a carrier bag. The slug will curl up and then can be grabbed into the bag. Again disposal could be key.

The rapidly breeding much larger slug in the UK is likely to be a foreign interloper. These days the Spanish Super Slug is abundant in British gardens.It is possible that such a slug can grow to a massive 10cms long. These slugs must be got under control but how remains a problem for gardeners.

We have two composters in our small garden. Currently so much lives in them that it is a life threatening mission to place any scraps into them. Well I could be exaggerating but as you lift the lid the contents wriggle around with life Yuk.

Frogs still return to our garden each year, even though we have had no pond since 2007. When he were flooded during the 2007 Summer floods the pond was just another added problem and had to go.

Frogs often are actually still around no matter what time of year. Move a plant, pick up a leave and anything from a tiny to a huge frog may jump out. Now the good thing so we are told about frogs is that they willl eat slugs. If that is the case I hate to think how many may have lived in our garden but for the presence of the frogs.

2012 in the UK began with predictions of an extended drought. On the contrary the weather just got wetter and wetter. So much so that even as Christmas was celebrated many people were bailing out their homes. Crops, be it flowers, produce in your garden or that of farmers in the UK have been hit hard by the poor weather.

The ever increasing and blossoming population of slugs has had a feast. They love the damp conditions and continue to chomp their way through anything growing, even when the stuff has had it.

All of this means that slugs will be an even worse problem in the UK in 2013.

Note: Avoid simply pouring salt on to a slug. Imagine you had an open wound and a cruel person did that to you? That is what it will feel like to the slugs.

One of the plants that has done really well in our garden during the wet UK Summer of 2012 is the Hydrangea. This beautiful shrub will not appeal to everyone but we like its ability to grow fast, shape fairly easily, supply huge flamboyant blooms and so much more.

With flowers that could be any shade of pink, purple, blue, lilac or white Hydrangeas have come a long way in recent years.

One problem with the wet weather is slugs and the under leaves of large Hydrangeas can be prone to acting as a late supper for these plant chompers. Other than that the plants are fairly hardy and will thrive in various locations.

We have four of the shrubs. Two are in the partial shade of a border in our rear garden. The other two are in a sunny border in the front garden. Although these four have varying soil, levels of sun and face different directions they are all thriving.

You can propagate new plants from a hydrangea which will save money. Buying a small plant will cost you around £5 so they are not cheap. However they soon establish themselves in a garden and will grow into a large plant.Kept smaller a Hydrangea is also suitable for a balcony or even indoors.

Newer plants will have more flowers to leaves but the ratio in older plants may be more leaves to flowers. Make sure you prune at the appropriate time of year and so that the plant will grow into a good shape.

Levels of acidity or alkaline in your soil will determine if a Hydrangea has blue, pink or purple flowers. Planting in an ericaceous soil should make the flowers blue rather than pink. Similarly you can add an ericaceous feed as you water hydrangeas and change the colour of flowers, albeit temporarily.

The shrubs will stay in flower for most of the summer months offering a swathe of colour. You can use the flowers for a display in doors if you want to. Dry the large blooms also for an everlasting display.

Tags: growing Hydrangeas, Hydrangeas, propagation

A beautiful well mowed lawn may be desirable but during the Summer months it can keep you busy. In spite of modern power lawn mowers the fact that you have to "now the lawn" every week or two can be time consuming. Then there is feeding, watering, keeping down weeds and so much more.

In the UK many gardeners have opted to get rid of their lawns. Pebbles and gravel can make an environmentally friendly alternative to your lawn but what about fake grass?

Artificial Lawns have longevity, easy maintenance and are easy on the eye.

Prices vary and may seem a little expensive at first glance. However when you cost in the time and effort saved, plus the money saved as you do not need to purchase weed killer, lawn mowers, lawn food and so much more, an artifical lawn good be a good option for you.

Whilst the manufacturers claim that laying an artificial lawn is easy you may prefer to opt for a fully inclusive service.

There will be a few maintenance and good practice requirements such as making sure an animal does not do its business on the lawn and that no person tries to stub out a cigarette on it.

Research the best type of artificial lawn for your needs. Consider the size you want to cover and who will use the lawn. If it is for children to play on one of the cheaper versions may be best. If it is for the best looking front garden around, you may want to pay more and choose a luxurious option.

If you check out youtube you will find plenty of videos offering advice on measuring for an artificial lawn and laying it.

Shop around to find the most reputable supplier available. Again online will provide you with a wide range of suppliers and products.

Artificial grass will not look good forever but if you follow the manufacturer's instructions you should have a  maintenance free lawn which looks good for many years.

Please note: Some artificial grass is purely for display purposes, not lawns.

When this blogger I was a kid growing up in fifties Britain many people had an allotment. Living in an area of town that had small houses with little if any garden space and more than our fair share of bomb sites, green areas were but a dream. Bomb sites where great places for kids to play on but not much use other than that. These days perhaps the waste land would be utilised more quickly. Back then with so much rebuilding needing to be done they were just left as waste ground. Anyway so many people had an allotment why bother with waste ground?

But perhaps you have no idea what an allotment is. Well let me enlighten you. 

An allotment is a piece of land that you rent from the local council. The purpose is so that you can grow produce and flowers on it. For those with no garden space at home an allotment could be ideal.

These days allotments still exist but can be hard to come by. Your council may have a waiting list. Another sign of the times is that these days your produce may get stolen or vandalised. When I was a kid this did not happen except for the odd cheeky kid who may play a prank. Security fences and locked gates now offer some protection.

Each area may have a dozen or so allotments on it. This means that friendships soon follow. Of course the reverse can happen also. On the whole though allotment growers are generally very sociable.

There are usually some rules and regulations about what you can put on your allotments. These rules are not usually anything too bad.

Most people add a shed to their allotment. Some of these are basic and just offer a potting shed and somewhere to make a drink. However, some are a home from home. Bits and bobs of furniture from around the home may be snatched in order to furnish the allotment shed.

At one time it could be the man of the houses' respite away from the wife and kids. These days though couples and whole families may run the allotment.

In general each allotment is about 10 rods in size. This is an ancient measurement equivalent to 302 square yards or 253 square metres. This may not sound a lot but you will be surprised how much produce such an allotment can produce. It means some hard work and crop management though, to make it efficient.

People from all walks of life, such as nurses, doctors, teachers, IT workers, sales people and factory workers might have an allotment. For many the fact that it is so different to their 9-5 work is part of the attraction. This can make the allotment relaxing as well as rewarding. Of course the exercise is good also.

As people continue to have more and more concerns over shop bought food stuffs, growing your own is an attractive option.

Rents are set locally and so do vary. If you are lucky you may pay less that £10 a year. If you are not you may pay £80 or more a year.

Allotments are thought to date back thousands of years in the UK. Laws amended rights over the years and not until the early part of the 20th Century were firm rules applied. Allotments came into their own during the First and Second World Wars in the UK. With produce rationed and in short supply many people choose to grow their own fruit, flowers and veg. In the 2nd World War posters advertised allotments and asked people to "dig for victory".

In 1950 the Allotment Act offered guarantees that some land would always be available for allotments. However England is a very small country, with an constantly increasing population. Land is in short supply. Although the decrease in the number of allotments has slowed they are still in short supply.

If you live in England and want to rent an allotment check out what is available through your local coincil. There are also some plots available which belong to the church. Remember to consider the location, for ease of use.

For example, if you have no private means of transport an allotment across town may not be ideal. When trying to work out the cost, consider the total amount if you have to start from scratch. In the long run an allotment could save you money, be fun and provide you with healthy produce. In the initial stages there will be some financial outlay.

If money is tight create a list and only purchase the essentials to get you started. You may find that others using the same patch of allotments will let you have some seeds once they get to know you.

Allotments still tend to be sociable places.

It may be the middle of July but in the UK it is hardly Summer. The poor weather means that crops will have failed and home grown produce may be hit and miss this year. However if you are lucky you may still find that in August there will be some of "free" foods available for you to use.

In a few weeks time you may find that you have plenty of wind fall apples. Last August a colleague brought a huge bag of such apples, from his garden, into work. Some were a little bruised but that should not worry you too much. Along with the brambles which you should be picking in August from along side paths and hedges these apples will make a fair few goodies including:

JAM or JELLY

You can use Brambles or Blackberries to make Jam. They are rather seedy and so if you want to make it more in the consistency of a Jelly you will need to have a sieve to hand.

Wind fall apples are a perfect accompaniment to the brambles. Bramble and apple has the right amount of pectin to make a perfect jam and compliment each of the flavours well.

STEWED FRUIT

Stew the fruit by boiling in a pan with a little sugar. How long you cook the fruit for depends on your taste. Too long and it will resemble jam. Just a little and the fruit will hold its texture and sharpness. Use the stewed fruit as a topping for breakfast cereal, porridge, rice pudding or one its own with cream.

FRUIT PIE AND CRUMBLE

Fruits such as Bramble and Apple make perfect tarts, pies and puddings. A crumble makes a tasy pudding. Layers of fruit and sugar topped with a crumbled mixture similar to sweet pastry before it is kneaded and rolled out.

HOMEMADE WINE

Homemade wine can be delicious and potent. Make sure you follow an established recipe if you are a novice. Elderberries gathered from hedgerows make the wine cheap into the bargain.

DESSERTS

Use stewed fruit to add to plain yogurts, make fruit fools or use fresh for smoothies and milk shakes

FREEZE

Freeze "free" foods so that you have a good supply of these fruits during the long winter months to come.

Above all use your imagination. Never use a plant, or its leaves, for example, without ensuring that it is safe to consume. Remember there are plenty of poisonous plants growing wild.

More recipes here

Tags: Autumn free foods, How to make Jam, stewing fruit, making puddings, homemade wine, brambles

Why bother?

In tough economic times growing a selection of fruit and vegetables can be cost effective. It can also be easy and fun.

You will need

• A place to grow the potatoes.
• Potatoes.
• A growing medium.
  

It's easy when you know how

Growing your own vegetables has become more popular again, lately. With most people feeling the economic pinch many are looking at ways to save some money. Growing your own potatoes will give you a tastier potato than the shop bought variety, save you some money and is suitable for the smallest of gardens or yards.

Like so many things though preparation is the key to yielding a good crop. A little time and effort spent initially will go a long way. Once your potatoes are established they will need the minimum effort on your part. Fresh new potatoes straight from the earth can be easily achieved and are well worth the effort.

Where to plant

Deciding on the best place to plant your potatoes will depend upon various considerations such as:

• The size of your garden, vegetable plot or area of land.
• If you are planting in pots, containers or grow bags, the space that is available.
• What size crop of potatoes you are hoping for.

Choose your potatoes

• There are many varieties of potato, also referred to as early, second early and main-crop.
• Decide when you would like to harvest your potatoes before you make your choice or choices.

Chitting the potatoes

Potatoes need to have some shoots showing before they are planted. The practice of encouraging shoots to sprout is called chitting.

• You will need to start chitting the potatoes about six weeks before you want to plant them.
• Look for the more round end of each potato. You should see that the potato has what are called eyes here. These are like black dots.
• Use something such as old egg cartons or seed trays to chit the potatoes.
• Stand each potato so that the end with eyes is facing upward.
• Place these potatoes in full light, perhaps on a windowsill.
• Once the the sprouted shoots are at least 11/2 to 21/2 centimetres long the potatoes are ready to plant.

It is possible to buy potatoes that have already been chitted but these will be more expensive.

Planting in the garden

Plant the potatoes in dug trenches that are up to 13 centimetres deep. The exact depth will depend upon the variety of potato. Check the packaging of the potatoes for any specific advice. The space needed between each potato will again depend upon the variety.

Once the trenches are dug and prepared with some fertiliser:

• Carefully place each potato in the trench.
• Leave at least 30 centimetres between each potato.
• Take care not to damage the potato shoots.
• The potato is paced so that the shoots are facing upward.
• Gently cover each trench with earth.
• Once the shoots have begun to show through the soil, cover them again. This will leave a bank or ridge of earth.

Harvesting your crop

Your crop should take about 3 or 4 months to grow and become ready for lifting. A lot will depend on the time of year.

For early crop potatoes lifting can take place early in the season. In fact as soon as the shoots showing above the ground are green and in flower.

For later crops you can leave the potatoes in the ground, even if the top growth looks well past its best.

A couple of weeks before you are going to lift the crop, cut the top growth off at the ground. Doing so helps the potato skin to toughen up. This should make the potatoes less prone to damage as you lift them and extend their shelf life.

Tips and advice

• Planting and growing potatoes can help break down hard and clay based earth in your garden.
• Potatoes like full sun.
• Water freely especially in very dry weather.
• If space is at a premium grow your potatoes in tubs, platers or boxes. Make sure that each container is at least 30 centimetres deep, is a reasonable width and has proper drainage.
• Feed the potatoes as required.
• Do not plant or try to grow potatoes in frosty weather.
  

Tags, growing vegetables, how to grow potatoes

Water is a valuable resource. These days it can be in short supply in almost any country around the world. As we all make a conscious effort to protect the environment and such resources harvesting rain water seems a sensible option.

In order to successfully harvest rainwater most people install a water butt or barrel. This can either be a purpose bought water butt or made by yourself. People often utilise old wooden barrels which they then line with polythene. Old plastic bins are also a good option. However, buying a water butt is relatively cheap and such water butts are tough and will last a long time. Of course once you have a rain water butt you need to know what to do next.

Here is a step by step guide:

• Choose an area outside of your home that is near to its rainwater system
• If your water butt is to be installed on earth dig out an appropriate sized area, around four inches deep, and cover with small sized gravel. You may be able to utilise your existing garden gravel.
• Lay concrete slabs on top on this to add some height. If you prefer you can build a wooden stand to hold the water butt but remember wood can rot and will not last forever. You can simply utilise any old bricks that you have to use as a stand but ensure that the support is stable and safe.
• The water butt needs to be sited on a stand in order too increase water pressure. If you are going to pump water from the water butt this is essential. If you think that you will want to simply access the water from the butt at the top, this will not be so important.
• Position the water butt or butts. If desired connect the butts together with hoses.
• Make sure that any water butts have an overflow pipe fitted so that any excess water will drain away from your home.
• Fit a connector to your existing fall pipes so that rainwater is diverted to the water butt
• The top of your rain water butt will need to be covered, perhaps with mesh, so that leaves and other debris do not fall in.
• A tap positioned toward the bottom of the water butt will make it easy to distribute and access the water. Place this tap at an appropriate height so that you do not have to bend too far and risk hurting your back.

You will need
Water butt.
Alternatively an old bin or barrel which is large enough to use.
Small amount of gravel.
Concrete slabs or old bricks.
Alternatively wood to build a stand for the water butt.
Tubing.
Hose for connecting more than one water barrel or butt.
Tap.
Mesh guard.
Overflow pipe.
Connection to the fall or down pipe.

Things to bear in mind

• Many of the items such as mesh, gravel and piping may be found not in use around your home or in the garage.
• Make sure that the overflow pipe takes any potential threats well away from your home.
• Clear debris from the mesh from time to time.
• Check that the overflow pipe and tubing are free from blockages.

How to harvest rainwater here

Tags:environment, green issues, harvest rainwater, making a water butt, gardening

It may be hard to believe in the UK right now, but only a matter of weeks ago a severe drought resulted in shortages of water in gardens. Managing water stocks is becoming ever more important in the 21st Century.

Global warming and climate change means unusual weather patterns. These changes can result in excessively heavy rainfalls in summer and a lack of valuable water during the winter months. The need to conserve water has never been greater. If you are building a new home consider installing a full rainwater harvesting system. Even if your home was constructed many years ago you can still make some adaptations.

One of the best ways to conserve rainwater is to harvest it. Harvesting rainwater can help you manage garden water supplies efficiently. This can mean that you have a plentiful supply of rainwater throughout the seasons and the year. Rainwater will not be suitable for drinking water but can be used, for example, to water your garden, clean windows and wash paths.

How to harvest rainwater

In order to harvest the rainwater which regularly flows away from your roof you will need at least one water butt or barrel. Depending upon the size of your home more than one rain water butt may be appropriate.

Most people decide to extend their water harvesting and incorporate a garden watering system which runs from the water butt.

What you will need

• Purpose made water butt
• Alternatively a suitable container to use as a rain water butt
• Tubing
• Connecting hoses
• Overflow pipe
• Mesh guard or lid
  

Rainwater barrels and butts

The rainwater barrel or butt can be as simple as you want. In order to minimise costs many people utilise something appropriate which they already own. Making your own water butt can save you money but make sure that it also fulfills its purpose.

If you decide to buy a purpose made water butt or barrel check out the alternatives on line. You may want to install a few small versions or just one large water butt. Ask your local council if they are running any environment friendly schemes which enable you to purchase a water butt from them cheaply, or even get one for free.

Installing a water butt

Installing your water butt will be fairly easy but consider:

1. The best location in your garden. Ideally the water butt should be sited where the most rainfall can be collected. Obviously this will need to be near the downspout or fall-pipe which runs from the gutters of your home. Also consider what you will use the water for. If it is for watering a vegetable patch it would be useful to install the butt within easy reach.
2. With an appropriate tubing system attached to the water butt, tap watering your garden will be easy. Make holes in the tubing where water is to be used.

Generally advice

• Make sure the overflow pipe will let water escape well away from your home
• Inspect the rain water butt and any tubing system regularly
• Clear away debris from the mesh guard or water outlets, regularly
• More than one water butt, all connected together, will fully utilise rainfall
• Make sure any tubing or pipe connections are secure.

How to make a rainwater butt, here



Tags: how to harvest rainwater, rainwater barrel, rainwater butt, installing rainwater conservation, environment

Did you know that Radishes are classed as one of the super-foods? This small peppery tasting salad vegetable is often maligned and under used but it should be eaten liberally when in season.

What can be most health giving though are the roots and the leaves of these small plants. These are almost always discarded when you prepare radishes for eating by top, tail and washing them. 

The leaves of the plant though contain more Vitamin-C, protein and calcium than their roots. Radishes contain Vitamin-C, zinc, B-complex vitamins and phosphorus. In fact you can find a wide range of uses and health benefits detailed here. Apart from eating radishes, they may become part of your beauty regime.

What we love about radishes though is their distinctive taste added to the fact that they are quick and easy to grow. You will not need a huge garden or plot of land. If you monitor the radishes growth and plant new seeds at regular intervals you will have a bountiful crop.

Here is one of our earlier articles regarding growing radishes from seed:

Well let's get started.First let's make sure we all know what radishes are. They are those small round red. pink or white, slightly peppery tasting salad vegetables. Good radishes are firm and crunchy to bite into.

As with most vegetables radishes have quite a few different varieties. What all radishes have in common though is that they are all quick and easy to grow. You do not need a large garden as they can be grown from seed in trugs, troughs, planters and the like. Convinced?

The seeds.

You can buy a packet of radish seeds fairly cheaply from garden centres or supermarkets. As a rough amount a packet of seeds containing 500 seeds will cost you about 40p. We opted for a packet of seeds from Asda for £1 that contained lettuce, spring onion and two different varieties of radish seeds.

Containers.

You can grow vegetables such as radishes even if you do not have a garden, They do not require a massive amount of space. Plastic round trugs which retail from between £2 to £8 are perfect for the job in hand. Remember to drill a couple of drainage holes in the bottom though before planting.

Compost.

Radishes grow so easily that a basic multi-purpose compost will be fine. Buy a huge bag as it works out cheaper.

Best location.

Radishes will thrive in a sunny spot. Summer in the UK can be a hit and miss affair so choose an area that has the most sunlight. Ensure though that they will not get too much sun on a daily basis. Radishes might like sun but they do not want to get too hot.

Planting.

Ideally plant in rows at a depth of around 1/2 an inch. Cover with soil or compost. Aim to leave a space between each seed. Some radish seeds are a fair size and this is eay to do with these seeds.

Helpful advice.

• Within about 10 days your seedlings will be strong enough to thin out.
• Ideally try to plant the seeds with enough room so that the thinning out needed is minimal.
• If you do thin them out discard weak underdeveloped seedlings in order for the strongest to survive.
• Keep weeds and other plants away from your radishes if you have planted directly into your garden.
• In Summer the radishes will ready to eat in a month or less.
• Radishes need plenty of water and so are perfect for a normal British Summer.
• In hot and dry conditions water liberally each evening.
• Watch out for slugs, pests and birds who may want to eat your crop before you can.
• If you want a continuing crop of radishes throughout the Summer sow seeds from the end of April, every couple of weeks.
• Radishes will be tastier if eaten as soon as ready rather than left in the ground.

Harvesting.

Take care not to disturb ant surrounding radishes that are not yet ready to harvest. Gently put your hand around the radish under the soil or compost. You will be able to assess if the radish is large and mature. If it is gently pull up. Snap the top leaves and bottom root of for washing and eating. Throw the discarded leaves and roots into your composter.

Overall.

As radishes are so easy and quick to grow they are perfect for beginners and children to grow. So? What are you waiting for?


Tags: Growing radishes from seed, radishes, health benefits of radishes, super foods